Outer Hebrides: Isle of Harris

One doesn’t just drive to Harris from Berneray. Rather, one gets up early, drives the winding roads of North Uist, crosses the causeway into Berneray and then turns right to line up for the small ferry that is the link between the two islands.

The ferry leaves Berneray and follows a very specific route over to the port of Leverburgh, on the Isle of Harris, avoiding the many half-hidden rocks and negotiating the swift currents of the channel (see top photo in this post). When the tides are very low, the ferry can be canceled or rescheduled, bowing to the whims of the water. On my travel day, we were lucky that the scheduled time fit in quite well with high tide so no delays.

After getting off the ferry, I stopped about a half-mile away at the small, white-washed building that hosted the community store, stocking up on bread, milk, biscuits, bacon, and other things I would need for my self-catering stops over the next eight nights. I also used the self-service petrol pump; pay by card at the shack and then pump the gas. Since petrol stations are few and far between on the islands, I figured better to fill up now than search for a pump later.

Isle of Harris Golf Club

A few miles down the road, I pulled into the roadside car park that doubles as the entry point to the Isle of Harris Golf Club.  I wondered who the heck would golf in this wind and rain. I didn’t have to look far for an answer; three guys were unloading their golf bags from the boot of their car, eager to get on the course. You do have to admit it is a scenic course; just look at that tee on the left. Me, I’d be too distracted by that view of the beach to care much about my swing or my score.

Roadside Lunch

A bit farther down the road, I decided to pull over and have some lunch, since I had a boot full of food. Of all the scenic pull-outs where I’ve eaten lunch in my vagabond days, this had to be one of the best.

After finishing my little snack, I walked around the point and took some photos. I had to really concentrate on holding the phone level in the fierce wind, as my hair whipped around my head. Worth it, though. Just look at that view!

Luskentyre Beach

Ten years ago, I didn’t feel confident enough to tackle the five minutes of single-track road that lead to the legendary Luskentyre Beach parking lot and just took photos from the overlook. If you’ve seen any photo of a Scottish island beach and thought “I must go there” it was probably this view of Luskentyre Beach.

This year, I made that left turn, determined to experience one of the best beaches in all of Scotland. Yes, I did meet a few cars, but we gave each other room and soon enough, I was out on the sand. And in that wind! It was wild! And yet, I was far from the only one taking a stroll on the long white sandy beach.

I see why people love this place and why it is the most photographed beach in the Hebrides, if not all of Scotland. It’s got moods, it’s got vibes, and it’s got so much personality. I’d come back again and again to photograph it if I lived here.

Just to the left of the car park was this cemetery on the hillside overlooking the beach. So many Scottish cemeteries have the best placement, overlooking the water, which must be such a consolation to visitors in their grief.

On to Bernera

The weather wasn’t improving as I climbed back in the car at Luskentyre Beach, so I surrendered the idea of more explorations and headed straight on to my destination for three nights, a small cottage on the Isle of Lewis. As the windshield wipers cleared the way, I negotiated the twists and turns that marked the transition from the Isle of Harris to the Isle of Lewis. This storm wasn’t going to clear quickly, so I stopped at a petrol station and small grocery before the turnoff to Bernera and purchased a few more supplies. I knew the next place was going to be rather remote, but I didn’t yet realize just how off the beaten path it was.

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Here’s the map for this section of my travels:

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At the end of the day, your feet should be dirty, your hair messy and your eyes sparkling.

Shanti