Images from Edinburgh

It was definitely tourist season in Edinburgh, despite being early May. Throngs of people clogged the streets and corners, the restaurants and the stores. And, yes, we were two of them, just trying to see a few sights, eat some good food, and explore perhaps the lesser known corners of the city. And avoid getting run over by any number of double-decker busses that plied the narrow streets.

Everyone has to walk up the iconic Royal Mile, then descend to Princes Street and over to Waverly Station to see this view of the oldest part of the city, which is what this photo is all about. There’s really nothing like this type of scene in the US, and I wanted my nephew to see it for himself. To me, it’s a classic Edinburgh view.

It had been a long week, starting with stowing my trailer and truck, flying up to Boston, getting my flight canceled and spending the night in a hotel in Chelsea (which if you know Boston isn’t the place you’d pick) then back to the airport waiting all day for the rescheduled flight, then the hectic pace in London, trying to fit three days into the two we ended up with, and the train up to Edinburgh. Sitting in my hotel room after dinner that first night, I realized I missed my regular life: birdsong, trees, and sky. So I went for a walk at dusk, and stumbled across a little church and cemetery a few blocks away, where the birds and the flowers drew me in. I listened to the songs with no one else in sight. In the middle of the chaos of the city, I had found my refuge, at least for a few minutes.

(For the birders in the audience, the songs were by Eurasian Blackbirds, Mistle Thrush, and European Robins.)

Edinburgh has so much to see in such a small space that it’s pretty easy to get around. You do have to plan ahead, though, to get entry to the Castle, as we found out. Last time I was here, 10 years ago, I just walked up and went in, no reservation required. Times have changed, so we bought tickets for our last day in the city. It was worth the wait.

I chose this photo for a few reasons: you can see the walkways that are, well, hard as rocks because they *are* rocks, you can see how the castle was built on top of an extinct volcano, and its uphill all the way. There is a lot to see, but my two favorites were the Scottish Crown Jewels (that was some set of swords in the display), and the Scottish National War Memorial. The latter is a beautiful building with stained glass windows, commemorating all the lives lost in the Great War, World War II, and various British campaigns before and since. No photos allowed, as it is considered sacred ground, and (for once), the crowds were hushed and respectful.

Probably my favorite little street of houses in the city is right below the castle, as you head down to Princes Street. A little oasis in the midst of all the hubbub. I’d live there in a heartbeat, even if it meant lugging the groceries across the street (where the car park is) and up the stairs. That blue door, that’s the one I’d pick.

For our last night, we had an excellent dinner (oh, the risotto!) and then walked down to Holyrood Park and the Salisbury Crags. When I was much, much younger, I once ran to the top of them with a Scottish running friend. This time, I was content to admire the yellow gorse and listen to the evening birds serenade us. (For the birders: Common Chaffinch, Common Chiffchaff, Eurasian Blue Tit, Eurasian Blackbird, and Eurasian Wren.)

All too soon, it was time to pack up the hotel rooms and head to Edinburgh airport to pick up the rental car and start exploring the coast and Highlands of Scotland. I’m fervently hoping all my UK driving skills will come back to me, although it’s been almost 20 years since I last drove on the “other” side of the road. We’ll see how things go, won’t we?!

This is a city of shifting light, of changing skies, of sudden vistas. A city so beautiful it breaks the heart again and again.

Alexander McCall Smith